August 7, 2010
My heart skipped a beat when I first laid eyes on Dall’ Italiano, just past Hart’s Corner in Phibsboro. I know looks can be deceiving but this place was going to need a belter of a personality to make up for the uncomfortable looking furniture and bland black & white Italian pictures that stood in for decor.
The mother had heard great things but when I was brought a red wine instead of a rose and my starter, a rather mealy Bruschetta with salmon and ricotta cheese (€5.80) turned up 30 minutes after I ordered it you could say my nerves were tested. Mother loved her Parma Ham and Melon (€8.90) but her credibility was shot and I was preparing to write the whole affair off as an exercise in resisting matricide.
One bite into my Pollo Taormina (chicken, spinach & cheese wrapped in Pancetta and dripping in pesto- €13.90) terminated any debate as to whether mother knew best. It was what Belinda Carlisle’s been talking about. Similar apparitions had appeared on the paternal platter, her Tagilita di manzo (striploin beef sliced with grana cheese €1750) bringing about a state of fervor by what she had ingested.
We opted for the more traditional Italian desserts, the Sardinian Seadas and the Cassata Sicilian (both €5) washed down with the house red (the most expensive they had was only €23 a bottle) while the cheerful ambiance of the place infectiously wheedled out my aesthetic concerns.
Dall’ Italiano, Harts Corner, Glasnevin
Opening Hours: Open daily: 8.30am – 10.30,
01 830 2549