January 30, 2010

This Stoneybatter restaurant may take its cue from the seven wonders of the world, but there’s little wonderful about dining here. From the overpriced and limited selection (seven dull starters and seven dull mains) to the uninspired décor, our first clue should have been finding the place empty. With no conversations to wig in on, we tried to find solace in the music, piped ever so lightly from the kitchen. But by Galway Girl’s third outing, I was ready to pull out my own hair and take the CD player’s plug with it. From the starters we sampled fish cakes, which were chewy rather than crispy; some stodgy, flavorless calamari and a smoked chicken salad that was rendered inedible due to the chef’s fondness for mustard (all €7.90). My main course of steak was pretty good – at €22.50, it would want to be. Desserts were pleasant, but I have a sneaking suspicion that a microwave was involved in the making of the Brioche and Butter Pudding (€6.90). Two years since it opened its doors, Seven has yet to find a niche. If things continue as they are, it could find itself being tossed by the culinary electorate like the many political posters that gawked in at me during my meal.

73 Manor Street, Dublin 7. 633 4092,


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